DIY all aluminum 3D Printer

Author: lavith, published on 2014-09-18

Click this button to get the 3D model

Summary

This is my second built of DIY 3D Printer. The first one of course is Prusa i3 but soon later found out that it’s a bit flexi out of wooden box frame. Hence the second one is all metal (7075 aircraft aluminum) but mostly based on Prusa i3 and some other popular 3D printer designs that you can find online in terms of XYZ movement such as Alminatus, Luzbot TAZ.

If you explore the solidworks files, you will notice there are 6 x 1/4-20 tap holes at the bottom. You will need to install 6 adjustable screw legs with rubber damping pads for vibration and reducing noise. Adjust the height of the front and back leg screws first to get your printer level and then the middle leg screws just need to kiss the support floor.

What difference is that mine has thrust bearing design incorporated into Z-axis which improves print quality.

The frame is a standard 10 series (1.00″ increments and a .50″ Centerline) from 80/20

If you do some modifications to the design, please indicate which part and share so everyone else can learn.

Future DIY project: Create all aluminum cold end which can couple with J-Head and E3D hotends. Stay tuned.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blJxz28HuQI
Thrust bearing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usJId7w4_dA

Instructions

Download SolidWorks source file and explore on your own. You can also extract dimension out of solidworks files.
NOTE: I changed to M6 threaded rod with the use of thrust bearing instead of ACME screw as per cad model.
All parts are easy to machine if you have access of CNC mill.

License: Creative Commons – Attribution – Non-Commercial

Tags: 3d_printer, Acme_leadscrew, all_aluminum, Aluminatus_Trinity_One, Aluminium, CNC, DIY, E3D_Hotend, gadget3d, GT2_Belt, Lulzbot_Taz, Machined, MendelMax, printer, thrust_bearing