PL2Q Hugin

Author: swepet, published on 2012-03-15

Click this button to get the 3D model

Summary

This is the next version of the 3D printable quadcopter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtMYRgkvqsk

The PL1Q Vampire was the first. Now continuing on the mythological creatures naming-scheme here is the PL2Q Hugin. I have put a lot of thought in to this one, but i fear it will fly away one day..

Instructions

Print build fly !

If you already have printed a PL1Q Vampire most parts should be backwards compatible at least with some modifications..

Watch my video first, i show the quadcopter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtMYRgkvqsk

I print everything 100% filled and i use PLA, 0,3mm layer height
and i use SF35.

You need some soldering skills to use the new motor mounts. You solder the ESCs in to them..

The body should now bridge more correct, one direction is now 0,3mm over the other so it bridges one first and then on the next layer the other bridge (at least if you print using 0,3mm layer height in SF35).

If you intend to fly with a gopro camera, then choose the gopro legs, they are a bit taller and also have the battery further back to compensate for the weight of the gopro.

On the gopro mount you might need to grind the servo hole a bit to make the servo fit. Also the screw holes in the gopro mount need to be drilled a bit to make the screws fit.

Here is a list of the things i have in my PL2Q Hugin.
Most parts are Gaui 330x-s parts (my first quad)..

Main parts are

Esc’s: GE-010 10A BRUSHLESS ESC x4
Motor’s: GM-410 SCORPION BRUSHLESS MOTOR 400W-KV1050 x4
Props: GAUI 330X 8 inch Props (8A & 8B)
Propadapter: GAUI 330X ADAPTOR AND SPINNER SET (FOR 3MM SHAFT) x4
Board: MWC MultiWii SE Standard Edition (Crius MultiWii SE)
Camservo: HXT900

I also have

Battery, Rhino 3s 25c 2250mAh lipo
Imax B6 charger for the lipo (and a power supply to the charger)

Servo extension cables a bunch of them.

Linkage (music wire) between the servo and camera mount (0.8mm diameter).

2x Screw M3x25x0.5mm, and 2x M3 locking nuts for camera mount.

Black and Red silicone wire for power. I use 20AWG in arms and 16AWG to battery.

XT60 connector for battery.

JST connectors if you want to be able to remove arms.

Shrink-wrap !

Zip-ties !

Small screws for the motors.. (usually included when buying motors).

CA glue (superglue).

Lipo alarm, that warns when battery is getting low.
(completely depleting a lipo will damage it)

RC equipment i use

Radio: Turnigy 9x with FrSky module (er9x firmware with telemetry)

Receiver: FrSky D8R-II (firmware with ppmsum out)

Using other parts then the ones listed

If you think the parts listed are to cheap/expensive/etc then
of course you can use other parts. I would recommend that you look
at forums like rcgroups.com, multiwii.com and that you ask google.
Before ordering parts you should know what you wan’t and if they will
work well together, getting it wrong can release the magic blue smoke,
and with that gone, the things will not work… Also if you do not have it already get an RC watt meter, every electrical flyer should have one !
Learn watts, amps, kV, etc.. The more you know, the more you will be able to do !

I find podcast to be a great source of information..because you can
learn a lot of stuff while doing other things, commuting, working,
walking etc..

My 3 favorite RC podcasts are:

www.thecrashcast.com
allthingsthatfly.com
rctodayshow.com

I listen to many more, but these three are my favorites that i follow every episode of.. great way to learn about RC stuff..

More

I have a Ultimaker 3D printer so that is the build size i have in mind when designing, but now i think the canopy should fit smaller printers like the TOM. I will try slicing down the other parts when i get time, but if some sketchup skilled person would like to make a sliced up derivative of the parts that would be awesome !

License: Creative Commons – Attribution – Share Alike

Tags: printbot, quadcopter, quad_copter